![]() COSMETIC ASSEMBLY COMPRISING A COLOR PRODUCT
专利摘要:
The subject of the invention is a cosmetic product comprising a container provided with at least one cavity in which is disposed an assembly of a solid inclusion piece, and a fixing composition having a drop point greater than 50 ° C and average hardness less than 2,800 g. The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing this product which consists in preparing the inclusion part, depositing it on the bottom of the container, then pouring the fixing composition so that it comes around the part and fix it to the container. . This invention makes it possible to present several cosmetic products without resorting to a compartmentalized container. 公开号:FR3015866A1 申请号:FR1363742 申请日:2013-12-31 公开日:2015-07-03 发明作者:Lily Ann Perrin 申请人:LVMH Recherche GIE; IPC主号:
专利说明:
[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, intended in particular for the care or makeup of the face, which consist of several different solid compositions. The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic product offering several compositions of colors and / or different shapes in the same container. The cosmetic product of the invention has the originality of comprising both a composition which has been molded or pressed, and a composition which has been hot-cast in the container. The housings used for the simultaneous presentation of several cosmetic compositions are generally flat-bottomed packagings, their function being to present to the user at all times a large surface of product to facilitate the choice of the color (avoiding to have to open several different housings), to facilitate the sampling with the finger or an applicator, and to give an attractive appearance to the product. This surface is generally substantially flat. The housings of the prior art generally comprise two parts: a lid and a receptacle articulated around a hinge. The receptacle is generally composed of several compartments integral with the housing each containing different shades. In general, the housings of the prior art comprise a recessed lid that can be provided with an inner mirror and a recessed base, which can be provided with an intermediate support of one or more buckets intended for each receive a different composition. The lid and the base have side walls substantially perpendicular to the dispensing surface, and the compositions that fill the cups are not in contact with each other in the housing. In the field of cosmetic powders, there are multiple methods for creating assemblies of hues and textures in the same housing compartment. In the field of cast cosmetics, however, there is a limited number of methods for creating assemblies within the same housing compartment. Thus, US Pat. No. 6,058,942 has proposed a method of manufacturing a cosmetic product packaged in a casing which consists in depositing a first solid material in the receptacle, pouring a second material in liquid form into the casing and then allowing it to cool. to become solid. The first material has a lower melting temperature than the second material, so as not to melt when it comes into contact with the second molten material. In the same way, EP 1325692 assembles cast anhydrous products or pressed powders with a thermosetting resin. The resin is cast, but has the disadvantage of requiring a cure time of several hours. In addition, the resin can not be used as a makeup or care product. In FR 2956833, silicone molds and several casting steps were used to create multilayered anhydrous layers. The product surface accessible to the user is therefore made of a single hue. This product can not offer the user several different shades or textures simultaneously. Finally, assemblies of pressed powders with cast cosmetic products have not been described. OBJECTIVES OF THE INVENTION It is desired to develop cosmetic products which comprise, in one and the same package, or in one and the same container, several colors and / or several patterns of molded compositions or cakes of laser-cut powders. It is also desired that the assembly does not use buckets and allows to obtain a transportable product in which the colors and shapes are integral with each other, and do not detach over time. By following the teaching of US Pat. No. 6,058,942, the inventors have found that the second material which is poured around the first previously placed in the container, can solidify before filling the container in a uniform manner and before completely surrounding the container. first material. With a second material of melting point lower than the first, the inventors have also observed that it is not always possible to completely fill small interstices. In the context of the invention, the inventors have found that it is possible to heat-cast a cosmetic product around one or more cosmetic elements of various shapes, reliefs and hues in order to compose a solid assembly fixed to a housing. The cosmetic inclusion elements of the product of the invention are either cast moldings or pressed powders. The inventors have found a fixing composition which conforms well to the inclusion forms, conforms well to the shape of the container and fills many interstices left between the inclusion forms and the walls of the housing, even when they are narrow. The invention has the advantage of using a cosmetic product to assemble and fix the cosmetic inclusion products. The assembly assembly is therefore cosmetic. Moreover, the solidification rate of the cosmetic product used for fixing is of the order of a few minutes which makes the handling much easier and the manufacturing process faster. The invention is illustrated with reference to the figures. Figures 1 to 3 show a perspective view of an assembly according to the invention obtained from spherical inclusion elements which have been previously molded, placed in the bottom of a container comprising a circular recess, and then assembled by pouring and solidifying a fixing composition containing waxes, oils and pastes. Figures 4 to 6 show an assembly in the form of a cameo comprising an embedding piece which has been molded and placed in a container comprising an oval recess, and then immobilized by casting and solidification of a fixing composition containing waxes, oils and pastes. Figures 7 to 9 show a perspective view of an assembly of pressed powder inclusion parts placed in the rectangular recess of a container. The inclusions are bonded by casting and solidifying a transparent pearlescent gel-like fixing composition containing polymer-gel oils. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION According to a first aspect, the invention relates to enrived cosmetic product comprising a container provided with at least one cavity in which is disposed an assembly of at least one solid inclusion part at 25 ° C. and a solid binding composition at 25 ° C, characterized in thatthe inclusion piece and the fixing composition are in contact with each other and are of different compositions, the fixing composition is provided with a drop greater than 50 ° C and of medium hardness - measured at 25 ° C using a texturometer with a hemispherical probe - less than 2800 g, and in that the fixing composition contains at least an oil and a structuring compound. It has indeed been discovered in the context of the present invention that the casting of a particular product around the molded or pressed cosmetic elements in order to assemble them in a pack makes it possible to fix them firmly together in the same container, without altering their structure, while adhering well to the surfaces of the container, while covering the surfaces of the container uniformly and while having a relatively fast cooling rate. The invention has the advantage of allowing the assembly of several pieces of cosmetics that have been previously independently shaped. The product of the invention also allows the presentation and joining of several textures in the same container, for example two cast products of different hardness, or a powder product and a cast product, without having recourse to the use of traditional buckets that we just fix it in the case. Finally, the product of the invention allows great adaptability to different forms of housings without the need to seek a bucket format that fits perfectly or without the need to adapt formats formatting of cosmetics. The container of the product of the invention can take any form such as circular or rectangular. It preferably comprises a single cavity whose shape is advantageously independent of that of the container and which may be rectangular, circular or oval. The container of the product of the invention is advantageously devoid of bucket. The cavity is preferably non-compartmentalized and its bottom is flat, so that a liquid fills it completely when poured into it. In a preferred embodiment, the container comprises a single cavity and is devoid of a bucket. In the container, the fixing composition advantageously covers the entire surface of the bottom of the cavity, and preferably leaves flush with the inclusion piece. The product of the invention may comprise at least one inclusion piece, for example at least two. The inclusion pieces may advantageously be of different composition, hue and / or texture. According to one embodiment, the inclusion piece has a hardness greater than that of the fixing composition, especially when the inclusion part contains predominantly fatty substances such as oils or waxes. The inclusion pieces may be anhydrous, or contain an aqueous phase and a fatty phase. The cast anhydrous textures used for the embedding part are preferably hard textures that resist demolding and that retain the potentially delicate shapes of a silicone mold. A cast anhydride may, for example, contain from 10 to 15% by weight of wax (es), from 10% by weight of pastes, and from 60 to 70% by weight of oil (s). [0002] The hardness of the inclusion elements - preferably when cast and molded anhydrides - is greater than the hardness of the fixing composition. For example, the hardness of the inclusion elements which are cast anhydrides is greater than or equal to 2600 g, preferably between 2800 g and 4500 g. The inclusion piece may have a hardness greater than that of the fixing composition. The molded solid emulsion type textures used for the embedding part are preferably water-in-oil emulsions. The powder-like textures used for the embedding part can be compacted into metal tooling without a bucket (so-called powder cakes). In this case, patterns can be obtained with the compaction tooling. Patterns can also be obtained by compacting large areas of powder and laser cutting selected patterns. This method has the advantage of avoiding designing specific tooling for pattern prototypes. Finally, the powders can be shaped as slurrys. The slurrys are then extruded and punched out. The shapes obtained can be flat or slightly raised. A product containing 80 to 90% by weight of a mixture of powders chosen from fillers and pigments and 10 to 20% by weight of oil (s) used as binder of powders. The cosmetic product of the invention may be a makeup product, a care product, a sunscreen product or a perfume product. The inclusion piece and the fixing composition may be independently selected from makeup products for the lips, eyes, cheeks, eyebrows, face, and body, for example a lipstick, blush or an eyeshadow. In one embodiment, the attachment composition is an eyeshadow, blush, lip gloss or lipstick. The inclusion piece is for example a lipstick comprising waxes, or an eyeshadow in the form of pressed powders. The inclusion piece may contain inorganic, organic or pearlescent pigments, and possibly fillers. The fixing composition may or may not contain pigments. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made, for example, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue. [0003] Among the organic pigments, mention may be made, for example, of D 8i C red pigments No. 19; D 8i C red No. 9; D 8i C red No. 21; D 8i C orange No. 4; D 8i C orange No. 5; D & C red No. 27; D 8i C red No. 13; D & C red No. 7; D & C red No. 6; D 8iC yellow No. 5; D & C red No. 36; D 8i C orange No. 10; D i C yellow No. 6; D 8i C red No. 30; D 8 CI red # 3; carbon black and lacquers based on cochineal carmine. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen in particular from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxychloride; and colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as dye-based pigments. bismuth oxychloride. The fillers may be chosen from talc, a hydrous magnesium silicate; micas with dimensions of 2 to 200 μm; kaolin, a hydrated aluminum silicate; zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate; silica; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters and polyamides (eg nylon); spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin, such as corn, wheat or rice starches, which may or may not be crosslinked; spheronized or non-crosslinked synthetic polymer powders, such as polyamide powders such as poly-β-alanine powders and nylon powders, polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, polystyrene powders crosslinked with divinylbenzene, silicone resin powders, teflon powders. The point of drop of the fixing composition is greater than 50 ° C, preferably greater than 55 ° C, for example between 55 and 60 ° C, between 70 and 80 ° C, or between 75 and 85 ° C. The fixing composition preferably has a hardness of less than 2,600 g. Its hardness is preferably greater than 600 g. The fixing composition has, for example, a hardness of between 1600 g and 2600 g and a drop point of between 70 and 80 ° C., or a hardness of between 600 g and 1700 g and a drop point of between 75 and 85 ° C, or a hardness of between 1000 g and 1600 g and a drop point between 55 and 60 ° C. [0004] The hardness of the compositions can be measured with a texturometer of the brand STABLE MICRO SYSTEMS, model TA.XT.Plus, by penetration into the composition of a probe, for example a hemispherical probe, at a speed and a force imposed by the apparatus. The drop point can be measured with a Mettler Toledo DP70 device with standardized wells with a 2.8 mm orifice diameter, adopting a heating rate of 2.0 ° C / min, a flow temperature of 40 ° C, and an end temperature of 95 ° C. The drop is visually detected using a built-in camera. The fixing composition contains a structuring compound which may be selected from waxes and oil gelling polymers. When the fixing composition contains waxes, it is preferred that it contain little wax so that its hardness is not too high. In general, it will be avoided to incorporate more than 10% by weight of wax (es) in the composition. It may be chosen to incorporate pasty materials to structure the fixing composition without increasing its hardness. The fixing composition is, for example, an anhydrous gel containing an oil and a gelling agent for this oil as described in document FR 2 958 159 or FR 2 975 589. Such a gelling agent is for example chosen from polyamides, such as ester-terminated polyamide copolymers (Uniclear®, Union Carbide), or silicone polyamides, or alternatively L-Glutamide derivatives such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, sold by Ajinomoto or a mixture thereof, pyrogenic silicas, or still more copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, such as, for example, a styrene / methylstyrene / indene hydrogenated copolymer, available commercially. According to one embodiment, the gelling agent is an amide-terminated polyamide polymer, preferably a tertiary amide-terminated polyamide (ATPA) type polymer, of formula (I) below: (I) wherein n is an integer denoting the number of units present in formula (I), n being able to vary from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 22 atoms of carbon ; the radicals R2, which are identical or different at each occurrence, denote a hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 54 carbon atoms, provided that at least 50% of the radicals R2 have from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. A first preferred polymer of the ATPA type is an ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide copolymer, commercially available. A second preferred polymer of the ATPA type is a Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer (INCI) copolymer, commercially available. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 10 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight of the composition, of an ATPA type polymer. The mixture of a nonvolatile hydrogenated polyallowlene oil, especially a hydrogenated polyisobutene and a fatty acid ester comprising at least one free hydroxyl group, for example a hydroxystearate ester, preferably ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, when the gelling agent is an ATPA. In a particular embodiment, the composition advantageously comprises: from 15 to 30% by weight of an ATPA-type polymer (INCI) Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, from 40 to 80% by weight of polyisobutene hydrogenated, from 5 to 20% by weight of ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, and optionally: from 0 to 5% by weight of cetyl alcohol from 0 to 5 ° h of a mixture of dibutyl lauroyl glutamide from 0 to 15 % hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer. The fixing composition may comprise, for example, a mixture of oil (s), wax (es) and pastes. For example, the oils represent between 55 and 65% by weight of the composition, while the waxes represent from 2 to 10% by weight of the composition and the pastes represent from 20 to 30% by weight of the composition. [0005] The oils are for example chosen from esters, polybutene, polydecene and octyldodecanol. The pastes are for example a polyisobutene, a C10-C30 ester, an olefin copolymer or a mixture thereof. Polyester wax, beeswax, ozokerite wax, or a mixture thereof can be used as the wax. The fixing composition may be anhydrous, or contain both an aqueous phase and a fatty phase. The fixing composition may be for example a water-in-oil emulsion, solid at room temperature. The product of the invention may comprise the assembly of an anhydrous fixing composition and anhydrous inclusion parts, an anhydrous fixing composition and water-in-oil emulsion inclusion parts, a composition of water-in-oil emulsion and anhydrous inclusion parts, a water-in-oil emulsion fixing composition and water-in-oil emulsion inclusion parts. [0006] In a first particular embodiment, the product of the invention comprises the assembly of a fixing composition in the form of an anhydrous gel comprising Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer and hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and of anhydrous inclusion pieces comprising more than 70% by weight of powders. [0007] In a particular embodiment, the product of the invention comprises the assembly of a fixing composition comprising at least one pasty fatty compound, oils and less than 10% by weight of waxes, and anhydrous inclusion pieces. comprising more than 10% by weight of waxes and more than 50% by weight of oils. [0008] The product of the invention may comprise at least one applicator, in the form of a brush, a brush or a foam tip attached to a rod. The applicator can be housed and snapped into the container. According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic product as described above which comprises the following series of steps: - shaping of the inclusion piece, - arrangement of the inclusion piece in the container cavity, - heating the fixing composition to a temperature above its melting point, and pouring said composition into the spaces of the container cavity left empty by the embedding piece, - cooling the composition fixing until solidification. [0009] Once the fixing composition has been poured into the container, it has a surface in contact with the container, a surface in contact with the inclusion piece and a free surface. The free surface of the fixing composition is preferably planar, while the surface of the embedding piece on which the user can take off product is higher than the free surface of the fixing composition. By "higher" is meant higher relative to the bottom of the container, so that the inclusion piece protrudes from the fixing composition. The inclusion piece is generally placed on the bottom of the container without coming into contact with the edges thereof, so that the space left free between the embedding piece and the edges of the container is filled with the fixing composition. In the product of the invention, the fixing composition can thus surround the base of the inclusion piece so as to immobilize it with respect to the container. [0010] In the case of a cast anhydride, the shaping of the inclusion piece can be carried out by the following series of steps: melting of a mixture comprising predominantly a solid fatty phase at 25 ° C, casting said mixture in a silicone mold, cooling said mixture, then demolding the piece thus formed. [0011] Silicone molds can be used to obtain different shapes and reliefs. By using silicone molds, embedded inclusion cosmetic products can be embossed, the shapes are pronounced in three dimensions and the patterns are delicate which makes the product more attractive. In the case of a pressed powder, the shaping of the inclusion piece can be carried out by the following series of steps: compacting with the aid of an imprint of a mixture comprising a majority proportion of powders, to form powder cakes without cups. In the case of a pressed powder, the shaping of the inclusion piece can also be achieved by the following series of steps: compacting a mixture comprising a majority proportion of powders, and laser cutting according to the desired shape . The shaping of the inclusion piece can be carried out by the following series of steps: mixing of powders in a solvent in order to obtain a paste which is extruded, cutting of the dough with the punch according to the desired shape, and drying. According to the method of the invention, the solidification of the surface of the fixing composition is advantageously carried out in a few seconds to a few minutes at room temperature (25 ° C.). [0012] The fixing composition may be cast at a temperature of less than or equal to 99 ° C, more preferably less than 95 ° C. In one embodiment, the container has a temperature before casting of the fixing composition which is equal to the casting temperature of the fixing composition. Alternatively, the container has a temperature before the casting of the fixing composition lower than the casting temperature of the fixing composition, for example of the order of 20 to 25 ° C. The container may be a packaging device in the form of a housing having a bottom defining a first hollow compartment for receiving the assembly of the inclusion piece and the fixing composition. The housing includes a cover that can be hinged to the bottom and have a recess in the bottom of which is mounted a mirror. It can be plastic or metal. The bottom may define a recess in which is disposed at least one applicator, such as a foam or a brush. In the cosmetic product of the invention, a single compartment comprises several different compositions. On the contrary, in the prior art, the bottom of the housing defines several compartments each intended to receive a different product, and in each of the compartments are arranged cups or cups that are just sticking or nesting in the compartments, although that the cosmetic compositions are not cast or compacted directly in the housing. The invention does not particularly include products in the form of lipstick sticks or two-tone foundation sticks that do not include a flat-bottomed container. In these products, the hardness of the two shades are equivalent in order to guarantee the deposit of the product on the skin without breakage of the grapes, or premature wear of one shade relative to the other. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES FIG. 3 represents a perspective view of a cosmetic makeup product (1a) according to the invention. In Figures 1 and 2, three spherical inclusion elements (4a) which have been previously molded and demolded, are placed on the bottom plane of the cavity (3a) circular of a container (2a) of square shape. These inclusion elements mainly contain fatty substances comprising a mixture of oils and waxes. In FIG. 3, the inclusion elements have been assembled to one another and made integral with the container, by casting into the cavity (3a) a fixing composition (5a) preheated to 95 ° C. Once the casting composition has settled, it solidifies in a few minutes, which makes it possible to handle the product very quickly. The fixing composition contains waxes, oils and pastes; its hardness is less than 2,800 g and its point of drop is greater than 50 ° C. The relative size of the inclusion elements and the height of the cavity are chosen so that the inclusion pieces are flush with the surface of the fixing composition which fills the cavity, and produces a cosmetic product in relief. Figure 6 shows a perspective view of a perfuming cosmetic product (1b) according to the invention. In Figures 4 and 5, an inclusion element in the form of a bust (4b) which has been previously molded and demolded, is placed on the bottom plane of the oval cavity (3b) of a container (2b) square shape. In Figure 6, the bust was secured to the container by casting a fixing composition (5b) at 95 ° C so as to fill the cavity (3b). Figure 9 shows a perspective view of a cosmetic makeup product (1c) according to the invention. In FIGS. 7 and 8, four spherical inclusion elements (4c) which have been previously shaped by compaction, are placed on the bottom plane of the square cavity (3c) of a square-shaped container (2c). These inclusion elements mainly contain powders that have been pressed. In Figure 9, the inclusion elements were assembled to each other and secured to the container, by casting in the cavity (3c) of a fixing composition (5c) preheated to 95 ° C. Once the casting composition has settled, it solidifies in a few minutes, which makes it possible to handle the product very quickly. The fixing composition is a pearlescent transparent gel containing polymer-gelled oils; its hardness is less than 2,800 g and its point of drop is greater than 50 ° C. The relative size of the inclusion elements and the height of the cavity are chosen so that the inclusion pieces are flush with the surface of the fixing composition which fills the cavity, and produces a cosmetic product in relief. The invention is illustrated by the following examples. [0013] EXAMPLE: Assemblies of inclusion elements and a cast fixing composition Each product is composed of at least one inclusion element, which is deposited at the bottom of a cavity formed in a unitary packaging, cavity in which one flows a fixing composition. All the elements are formed of cosmetic ingredients, all forming a composition for the makeup, care or protection of the skin, including the skin of the face. The hardness of the compositions was measured with a texturometer of the STABLE MICRO SYSTEMS brand, model TA.XT.Plus, by penetration of a hemispherical probe of diameter 12.7 mm (called Delrin finger). The measurement was carried out in a Cleopatra jar of 100 ml, and it was repeated three times. 5 The parameters of the measurement were as follows: - Approach 2 mm / s - Test 2 mm / s - Removal 2 mm / s - Penetration 13 mm 10 - Relaxation 25 sec - Triggering force: 2 g. The dropping point was measured with a Mettler Toledo DP70 device equipped with standard 2.8 mm orifice cups, adopting a heating rate of 2.0 ° C / min, a flow temperature of 40 ° C, and an end temperature of 95 ° C. The drop is visually detected using a built-in camera. 2.1 Composition A inclusion elements Composition A is used for the preparation of cast type inclusion elements. The "inclusion" cosmetic elements of the cast type are, for example, shaped by pouring into silicone molds. Composition A has the following formula (° / 0 by weight): ° h Wax 12.7 Paste 3.4 Oils 64.5 Charges 15.9 Other qs 100 30 The waxes are a mixture of polyethylene, beeswax and ozokerite. The pastes consist of a mixture of Bentone and C10-C30 esters. The oils consist of a mixture of polyisobutene, esters, polydecene and octyldodecanol. The fillers consist of pigments and pearlescent agents, the nature and the respective proportion of which vary according to the hue which it is desired to give to the composition. The "Other" fraction consists of preservatives, active agents or perfumes. Composition A has a dropping point of 78.2 ° C, a melting temperature of 77.3 ° C, and an average hardness of 4424 g, measured according to the methods previously described. 2.2 Inclusion Elements of Composition B Composition B is used for the preparation of inclusion elements. "Inclusion" cosmetic elements of the dry powder type are shaped by a conventional method such as by compacting, or by extrusion, die-cutting and drying. [0014] An eye shadow type composition of the following formula (° / 0 by weight) is prepared: ## STR2 ## Esters 14.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 The same formula is reproduced by varying the pigment composition so as to obtain a pink, brown or beige hue. 2.3 Fixing Composition C A fixing composition is prepared in the form of a transparent gel. This gel may itself be used as a fixing composition, or may be supplemented with a filler comprising pigments and / or pearlescent agents. The formula of the transparent gel is detailed below (% by weight):% Phase A Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer 21 Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate 11 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 56 Phase B Hydrogenated Styrene Copolymer / Methylstyrene / Indene 10 Cetyl Alcohol 3 , 2 Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide 0.4 Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide 0.4 Gel preparation process The various components of phase A are melted at 95 ° C. with stirring (Rayneri TurboTest, 300 rpm). Phase B is added and allowed to melt with stirring. 8% of nacres and 92% of the preparation obtained above are dispersed. The nacres are dispersed homogeneously in the melted phase A + B. Composition C is a colored gel having a hardness of 654 g according to the method described above, and a drop point equal to 82.8 ° C. 2.4 Fixing composition D The fixing product used is a composition D of formula (° / 0 by weight): waxes 10.2 Paste 25.5 Oils 60.3 Charges 0.7 Other qs 100 Waxes are a mixture polyethylene, paraffin wax and ozokerite wax. The pastes consist of a mixture of EPS copolymer, Bentone and hydrogenated polyisobutene. The oils consist of a mixture of polybutene, esters and octyldodecanol. The fillers consist of pigments and pearlescent agents, the nature and proportion of which vary according to the hue that is desired for the composition. The "Other" fraction consists of preservatives, active agents or perfumes. The composition has a drop point of 75.4 ° C. and an average hardness of 1867 g, measured according to the methods described previously. 2.5 Fixation Composition E A fixing composition is prepared in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion of the following formula. The name of the ingredients corresponds to their chemical name or their INCI name (° / 0 in weight). 20 Polyester wax 3 Beeswax 3 Hydrogenated glycerides 3.7 Hectorite 0.8 Esters 5.45 Oils 9.7 Liquid sunscreens 7.5 Pigments 19 Water qs 100 Emollients and preservatives 5.6 Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer cellulose gum and polymethylsilsesquioxane 4.6 Solid solar filters 1.5 The fatty phase is prepared by melting the waxes and then adding at 85 ° C the pastes and a portion of the oils at 85 ° C. The hectorite and dispersed pigments are then dispersed before the rest of the oils. [0015] The aqueous phase is prepared by heating the water and the emollients to 85 ° C., and then the vinyl dimethicone / methicone mixture silsesquioxane crosspolymer, cellulose gum and polymethylsilsesquioxane are dispersed therein. The aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase at 85 ° C. and emulsified for 15 minutes. Preservatives are added. [0016] The hardness and the drop point are measured according to the methods described above: Hardness: 1302 g Drop point: 58.4 ° C. The emulsion obtained is used as a fixing agent for the molded elements. The emulsion is poured into the container in which the molded articles have been previously placed. 2.6 Cb binding composition A binding composition of the invention was prepared using the following ingredients. Phase A Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer 16.5 Ethyl Hexyl Hydroxystearate 12 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 60.5 Phase B Hydrogenated Styrene Copolymer / Methylstyrene / Indene 7.0 Cetyl Alcohol 3.2 Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide 0.4 Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide 0.4 C bis Hardness 1643 g Drop point 83.4 ° C 2.7 ASSEMBLY ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION OF INCLUSION ELEMENTS AND FIXING COMPOSITIONS The inclusion elements were placed on the bottom of a housing or of a cup, and then poured the fixing product previously heated to a temperature of 95 ° C in the space of the compartment or the cup left free by the inclusion elements. The fixing composition is then allowed to cool. The following assemblies have been made. Assembly Ingredients Composition of observation of inclusions fixation 1 Composition A Composition D Figure 3 2 Composition B Composition C Figure 9 3 Composition A Composition E Figure 6 4 Composition A Composition C bis - The compositions obtained are solid and are used for the makeup of the skin. Compositions A and B are used indifferently to prepare inclusion pieces, and compositions C, D, E and C bis as fixing products, for preparing cosmetic compositions whose use may be the make-up or the care of the skin or even the protection of the skin when it contains for example filters conferring a value of SPF. [0017] The composition C bis has a dropping point greater than the drop point of the inclusions A. However, it is observed that when cast hot at 95 ° C., the composition C bis occupies the bottom of the container in a uniform manner, well surrounds the inclusions, and completely fills the small interstices, especially those of Figure 5. In addition, although the casting temperature is greater than the melting temperature of inclusions A, the shapes and boundaries of these remain intact. This goes against the teaching of US Patent 6,058,942.
权利要求:
Claims (21) [0001] REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic product in relief (1a, 1b, 1c) comprising a container (2a, 2b, 2c) provided with at least one cavity (3a, 3b, 3c) in which is disposed an assembly of at least one inclusion piece solid at 25 ° C (4a, 4b, 4c) and a solid binding composition at 25 ° C (5a, 5b, 5c), characterized in that the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) and the fixation composition (5a, 5b, 5c) are in contact with each other and are of different compositions, the fixing composition (5a, 5b, 5c) is provided with a dropping point greater than 50 ° C. and of average hardness - measured at 25 ° C using a texturometer with a hemispherical probe - less than 2,800 g, and in that the fixing composition (5a, 5b, Sc) contains at least less an oil and a structuring compound. [0002] 2. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that the container (2a, 2b, 2c) comprises a single cavity and in that it is devoid of bucket. [0003] 3. Cosmetic product according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least two inclusion pieces (4a, 4b, 4c). [0004] 4. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said product is a makeup product, a care product, a sunscreen product or a perfuming product. [0005] 5. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing composition (5a, 5b, 5c) is an eye shadow, a blush, a gloss or a lipstick. [0006] 6. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hardness of the inclusion part (4a, 4b, 4c) is greater than the hardness of the fixing composition. [0007] 7. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the structuring compound is chosen from waxes and gelling polymers of the oil. [0008] 8. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the inclusion part (4a, 4b, 4c) is a lipstick comprising waxes, or an eyeshadow in the form of pressed powders. [0009] 9. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) protrudes from the fixing composition. [0010] 10. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing composition (5a, 5b, 5c) has a hardness of between 1600 g and 600 g and a drop point of between 70 and 80 ° C. [0011] 11. Cosmetic product according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the fixing composition (5a, 5b, 5c) has a hardness of between 600 g and 1700 g and a drop point of between 75 and 85 ° vs. [0012] 12. Cosmetic product according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the fixing composition (5a, 5b, 5c) has a hardness of between 1000 g and 1600 g and a drop point of between 55 and 60 ° VS [0013] 13. A method of manufacturing a cosmetic product (1a, 1b, 1c) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following series of steps: shaping of the inclusion piece (4a) , 4b, 4c), arrangement of the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) in the cavity (3a, 3b, 3c) of the container (2a, 2b, 2c), heating of the fixing composition (5a, 5b) , Sc) at a temperature above its melting point, and pouring said composition into the spaces of the cavity (3a, 3b, 3c) left empty by the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c), cooling the fixing composition (5a, 5b, Sc) until solidification. [0014] 14. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the shaping of the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) is achieved by the following series of steps: melting of a mixture comprising predominantly a solid fatty phase at 25 ° C, pouring said mixture into a silicone mold, cooling said mixture, then demolding the piece thus formed. [0015] 15. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the shaping of the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) is performed by the following series of steps: compacting using a fingerprint a mixture comprising a majority proportion of powders, in order to form powder cakes without cup. [0016] 16. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the shaping of the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) is achieved by the following series of steps: compacting a mixture comprising a majority proportion of powders , and laser cutting according to the desired shape. [0017] 17. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the shaping of the inclusion piece (4a, 4b, 4c) is performed by the following series of steps: mixing of powders in a solvent to obtain a pulp which is extruded, cutting the dough to the punch according to the desired shape, and drying. [0018] 18. Method according to one of claims 13 to 17, characterized in that the solidification of the surface of the fixing composition (5a, 5b, Sc) takes place in a few seconds to a few minutes at 25 ° C . [0019] 19. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the fixing composition (5a, 5b, Sc) is cast at a temperature less than or equal to 99 ° C, more particularly less than 95 ° C. [0020] 20. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the container (2a, 2b, 2c) has a temperature before casting the fixing composition (5a, 5b, Sc) which is lower than the casting temperature of the composition fixing (5a, 5b, Sc). [0021] 21. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the container has a temperature before casting of the fixing composition (5a, 5b, Sc) of the order of a 25 ° C.
类似技术:
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日 WO2015101729A1|2015-07-09| FR3015866B1|2016-01-15| EP3089615A1|2016-11-09| CN105873469A|2016-08-17| KR20160105508A|2016-09-06| US20160324758A1|2016-11-10| JP2017500363A|2017-01-05| JP6620948B2|2019-12-18| KR102218631B1|2021-02-22| CN105873469B|2019-10-15| ES2728320T3|2019-10-23| EP3089615B1|2019-04-10|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题 US6058942A|1999-07-06|2000-05-09|Glamour Look Inc.|Multiple-component cosmetic product and method of making same| FR2956833A1|2010-02-26|2011-09-02|Citus Labo Equipement|Hot casting of flat makeup product, comprises placing deformable flat mold on support, pouring hot molten makeup product in the deformable flat mold, solidifying the makeup product to cool the product, and demolding make-up product|US20150257508A1|2014-03-14|2015-09-17|Mei Shual Cosmetics Co., Ltd.|Cosmetic palette assembly and method of making the same|US3279999A|1964-07-02|1966-10-18|Lehn & Fink Products Corp|Lipsticks| JPH0420885B2|1982-09-11|1992-04-07|Shiseido Co Ltd| JPS6385628U|1986-11-19|1988-06-04| JP2985014B2|1990-04-12|1999-11-29|株式会社コーセー|Powder makeup cosmetics| US6695510B1|2000-05-31|2004-02-24|Wyeth|Multi-composition stick product and a process and system for manufacturing the same| JP2002047135A|2000-08-01|2002-02-12|Tokiwa Corp|Method for producing solid cosmetic packed in container| ITMI20012837A1|2001-12-28|2003-06-30|Abb Service Srl|METHOD FOR WELDING CONTACT PLATES AND CONTACT ELEMENTS OBTAINED BY SUCH METHOD| ITMI20012834A1|2001-12-28|2003-06-30|Intercos Italiana|PACKAGE FOR CONTAINMENT AND DISPLAY OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS| JP4870923B2|2004-04-20|2012-02-08|花王株式会社|Solid powder cosmetic| US7989002B2|2006-12-20|2011-08-02|Avon Products, Inc|High gloss gel-based lipstick| ITMI20070172A1|2007-02-02|2008-08-03|Art Cosmetics Srl|EYE SHADOW FOR EYES AND PROCESS FOR ITS PREPARATION| US8333955B2|2007-03-19|2012-12-18|Elc Management Llc|High shine, stick-shaped cosmetic products| KR100950435B1|2007-12-13|2010-04-02|아모레퍼시픽|Manufacturing process of multi lip palette with prominence and intaglio molding| FR2945191B1|2009-05-06|2011-07-08|Oreal|COSMETIC SET OF MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS| WO2011072427A1|2009-12-17|2011-06-23|L'oreal|Cosmetic packaging system and using methods thereof| TWM385967U|2010-02-12|2010-08-11|Shao-Nung Chen|Cosmetic box| FR2958159B1|2010-03-31|2014-06-13|Lvmh Rech|COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION| FR2975589B1|2011-05-26|2016-08-26|Lvmh Rech|MAKE-UP COMPOSITION PRODUCING COLOR CHANGE TO THE APPLICATION|CN106561081B|2015-08-03|2021-10-12|株式会社资生堂|Water-in-oil type emulsified solid cosmetic| CN105054563A|2015-09-15|2015-11-18|郑航洋|Powder cake box| KR101997584B1|2017-07-14|2019-07-08|코스맥스 주식회사|Method for molding solid cosmetic composition including gelling agents| CN110143008A|2019-05-16|2019-08-20|李辉|A kind of powdery type method for molding cosmetics|
法律状态:
2015-12-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 | 2016-11-21| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 | 2017-11-21| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 | 2019-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 | 2020-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 | 2021-11-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |
优先权:
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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题 FR1363742A|FR3015866B1|2013-12-31|2013-12-31|COSMETIC ASSEMBLY COMPRISING A COLOR PRODUCT|FR1363742A| FR3015866B1|2013-12-31|2013-12-31|COSMETIC ASSEMBLY COMPRISING A COLOR PRODUCT| JP2016542967A| JP6620948B2|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetic assembly including infusion product| EP14827827.8A| EP3089615B1|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetic assembly including a poured product| US15/108,658| US20160324758A1|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetic assembly including a poured product| CN201480071845.8A| CN105873469B|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetics component comprising pouring product| KR1020167021081A| KR102218631B1|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetic assembly including a poured product| PCT/FR2014/053313| WO2015101729A1|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetic assembly including a poured product| ES14827827T| ES2728320T3|2013-12-31|2014-12-12|Cosmetic assembly that includes a molten product| 相关专利
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